J/105 Class Open Forum

Welcome to the J/105 Class Open Forum. Feel free to browse. If you would like to add your comments click here.

Open Forum entries (newest first):

I'd like to hear some ideas on crew recruitment, training, and sustainment. If you have training materials that might be appropriate for the website (as opposed to short pithy observations for the Forum), please e-mail them to me. I'm thinking particularly of "quick reference cards" that boil down volumes of useful information into something you can carry aboard. Crew assignments, sail trim, before start checklist, drills, etc., etc., etc. I think we all agree that you can't be competitive without good crew and most of us don't spend enough time on training and practice. So what works for you?
Nelson Weiderman (#37 Kima) <nhw@ids.net>
Wakefield, RI USA - Monday, March 30, 1998 at 08:41:23 (EST)

Dan, as of two weeks ago, JBoats had not been successful at appealing the ORC bow pulpit requirement. They do have some suggestions on how to meet those requirements, however.
Nelson Weiderman <nhw@ids.net>
Wakefield, RI USA - Monday, March 30, 1998 at 08:26:30 (EST)

Can any one tell me whether Jboats was successful in appealing the ORC Special Regulation 3.11 - Fixed Bow Pulpit - Upper rals of pulpits shall be no less height above the working deck than the upper part lifelines... The upper rails in the bow pulpit shall be securely closed while racing. I have bolted a life line accross the bow pulpit, but I do not wish to keep it there forever. Is Jboats still pursuing the appealing of this regulation due to the fact the bow pulpit is designed for an asymmetical chute.
Daniel Heun <dheun@att.com>
Chicago, IL USA - Thursday, March 26, 1998 at 19:27:24 (EST)

March was great in SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA........ SURPRISE we have J105's in tinsel town.. Mid Winter Regatta King Harbor Yacht Club 1st. J105 Belly Dancer Stoney Special (13.5 miles around cans) KHYC 1st J105 Belly Dancer Around Santa Barbara Island (88.5mi) Los Angeles Yacht Club !st Belly Dancer All I can say is I'm Happy I own one of the greatest rocket crusier's ever conceived.
Art McMillan <J105159@aol.com>
Redondo Beach, Ca. USA - Wednesday, March 25, 1998 at 19:52:23 (EST)

Re: Mclube Sailcote. Bought a can after seeing it at Sail Expo. I don't know if it helps sail handling or prolongs sail life but it worked well on a sticky zipper and a squeaky headliner on my sunroof. Doesn't feel greasy or stain fabric.Just feels slippery. Plan to try it on the boat this season. Anyone else know about it ?
Rich Levitt <riclevitt@aol.com>
northfield, nj USA - Tuesday, March 24, 1998 at 22:07:30 (EST)

What's the deal on this Mclube stuff that I have been hearing about? I understand that the Melges 24 are using it on their spinnakers. Has anyone in the J/105 fleet tried it out on their spinnakers........or anything else?
Dean Dietrich <deanj105@aol.com>
Tiburon, CA, ca USA - Tuesday, March 24, 1998 at 01:10:34 (EST)

Note Email address correction.
Bob Johnstone <jjj@gwi.net>
USA - Sunday, March 22, 1998 at 17:01:59 (EST)

Note Email address correction.
Bob Johnstone <jjj@gwi.net>
USA - Sunday, March 22, 1998 at 17:01:36 (EST)

Craig Juel: Snuffer bridle should come within 6 inches of block on sprit when pulled down hard, otherwise you'll have 10 feet of exposed sail flogging around. What your advisors don't comprehend is that before hoisting, one pulls out the sail and/or slides up the collar, exposing the clew. Then it won't jam when pulling the collar up. One of the early J/105 newsletters covered this subject in great detail. Another tip: Never, no never, try to pull the sock down to leeward. Always to windward. I left mine hooked up all summer long by closing the forward hatch in the vent position on top of all the lines, pulling the spin halyard out under the jib sheets to a small hook at the base of the shrouds. Another tip: Always tape your spinnaker halyard shackle, or just plain tie a knot to it and forget the shackle. They have a habit of popping open when pulled past the hounds. Don't ask me how, but there isn't a shackle made I'd trust. Good luck. Bob J.
Bob Johnstone <jj@gwi.netj>
USA - Sunday, March 22, 1998 at 16:58:59 (EST)

Wanted to buy: J105 shoal draft. email specs and price.
Tom Behrle <na40@ix.netcom.com>
Baltimore, MD USA - Friday, March 20, 1998 at 17:16:31 (EST)

As a keen sailor on german waters I'm looking for some fast boat. I found this exiting J105 and we received some information material. But as I'm sailing a lot with my wife and son we look for more information about the inerior of this boat. Perhaps you are able to send me some pictures via e-mail, as we cannot visit a J105 in Germany. Thank you very much in advance. - Dirk
Dirk Clasen <GinkgoClas@AOL.COM>
Wedel, GER USA -

We've scheduled a New England J/105 owner’s meeting to take place at 2:00 p.m. during the J BOATS MID-WINTER RENDEZVOUS on Saturday, March 14th at the TPI factory in Warren, RI. Owners from Eastern Connecticut to Maine are encouraged to attend. All J/105 owners should have already received an invitiation to the Rendezvous which runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. If not, please call 401-846-8410 and we can fax it to you. A couple of highlights: At 1 p.m. there will be a clinic on "Racing with Asymmetric Spinnakers". At 2 p.m. we'll gather as a J/105 class and go over the summer schedule of events and discuss any other topics of interest to the group. If you haven’t already RSVP'd to your local dealer, please call or fax J Boats at 401-846-4723 to let us know you can come.
Jeff Johnstone <jeffjboats@aol.com>
USA - Sunday, March 08, 1998 at 11:57:36 (EST)

Just a note to future buyers in Florida. THUS FAR, ALL THE J105'S SOLD AND LOCATED IN SOUTH FLORIDA ARE SHOAL DRAFT.
Bill Chambers
USA - Friday, March 06, 1998 at 18:40:01 (EST)

Replying to Tom Behrle, re: shoal and deep draft. To expand upon Rich Levitt's post, in national events the deep draft keel is assessed a 6 second penalty against the shoal draft. Performance difference depends upon wind and water conditions. In 1996 N/A's in Chesapeake, sailed in light to medium air, with little or no chop/waves, difference was not noticable, on absolute time. Individual race winners were mixed between shoal and deep draft boats. Folks from heavier air venues will have to comment on differences in their areas. I reinforce Rich's comment about knowing local practice; unless Bill Sutton posts differently, my understanding is that you cannot race class in the Chesapeake unless you have a shoal draft boat. To my knowledge, Fleet 3 is not allowing deep draft boats to race class, understandably to avoid the hassles of corrected time for a "class" boat. Works out just fine because there aren't any deep draft boats racing. Don't know practice elsewhere, but would be a real disappointment to inadvertantly buy different keel and then find out you couldn't compete with your fleet. Hopefully, your local dealer would keep you straight on a new boat, but double check for sure if buying a used boat simply through a broker or an advertisement.
Andy Skibo <adsaas@aol.com>
West Chester, PA USA - Tuesday, March 03, 1998 at 21:54:28 (EST)

I'm trying to nail down specs for a snuffer. Old class rules said it must be between 45 and 48 feet. I called ATN to be sure and they said it should be 44 feet. I called J Boats for the final answer and they told me J/105 ISP is 42.4, but to make the snuffer the same length as my A-sail leech. Called sailmaker, they said the leech would be 38.5 feet for my 89 sqm spinnaker, not yet built. I'm estimating the set/douse line to be 153 feet (76.5x2). If anyone knows from experience what the right sock length (right down to the clew, but no more) and line length for an 89 sqm A-sail, I would love to know for sure.
Craig Juel <winston@netnitco.net>
Valparaiso, IN USA - Tuesday, March 03, 1998 at 19:24:26 (EST)

Partner wanted for hull #208, to be commissioned in early May, then slipped at J-Port Annapolis. (301) 951-1035.
John Kircher <jkircher@weta.com>
Annapolis, MD USA - Sunday, March 01, 1998 at 10:55:02 (EST)

Setting the Trysail. When the wind blow your pants off and you will set the trysail there is a problem you must take the mainsail off the mast ( the trysail is a small heavy air mainsail). Has anyone of you tried that in 40-50 knots? Should we have a spare track only for the trysail? Happy for any comments.
Per Boeymo <boeymo@online.no>
Norway - Thursday, February 26, 1998 at 15:46:29 (EST)

On Shoal vs Deep keels.Most reports which I hear put the difference between shoal and deep keels at about 3-6 sec/mile. A more important consideration may be to 1) be sure you can get in and out of your slip and 2) be consistent with your local fleet. For example: the Chesepeake bay fleet is almost entirely shoal draft.
Richard Levitt <riclevitt@aol.com>
northfield, NJ USA - Monday, February 23, 1998 at 18:30:00 (EST)

I am thinking of buying a J105. Would like "performance" comments on Shoal Draft vs. Deep.
Tom Behrle <na40@ix.netcom.com>
Baltimore, MD USA - Sunday, February 22, 1998 at 19:23:15 (EST)

Craig- my suggestion is that you not over-rely on the wind instruments in your first season. The tendency is to get beady-eyed about theoretical polars, instead of developing more of a "feel" for sailing downwind with the A-Sail. Two rules of thumb you can use downwind (with your instruments turned off): 1) In under 12 knots of wind, with the A-sail up, concentrate on sailing the boat as low as you can WITH pressure in the spinnaker. Easiest way to see this is to watch the spinnaker sheet as it passes under the boom. Bear off until the sheet begins to droop a little, then head up about 5-8 degrees. This is as low as you can go with pressure. At times you'll have to head up a little more to accelerate, but then be aggressive about "bearing off" as much as you can with pressure on the sheet. 2) Set your Windex tabs at 30 degrees from centerline. In 12 knots plus (downwind), your target is to sail with the Windex arrow pointed in line with one of the tabs. This means you're sailing at 150 apparent. This is a good all around target. While the extra instruments do provide important data, all too often they can keep new owners in a "fog bank."
Jeff Johnstone <jeffjboats@aol.com>
USA - Sunday, February 22, 1998 at 10:38:07 (EST)

If anyone has a (formerly) class legal snuffer to sell, ATN or other, I would be interested. Please e:mail me directly with price and details.
Craig Juel <winston@netnitco.net>
Valparaiso, IN USA - Sunday, February 22, 1998 at 10:33:13 (EST)

For nine years, I've sailed a Pearson 31 with nothing but speed, depth, telltales and a Windex. Next season I'll be sailing a J/105 (Andiamo #176) with KVH Quadro2 Basic+Wind which includes depth, speed, sea temp, timer, log, voltage, apparent wind speed, true wind speed, apparent wind angle, true wind angle and VMG. I understand exactly what each of these is, but since they're mostly all new to me, I'm not sure which ones I will find most useful - especially when racing. Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...Craig Juel
Craig Juel <winston@netnitco.net>
Valparaiso, IN USA - Sunday, February 22, 1998 at 07:49:51 (EST)

For Sale : 1995 J105 " XSSX" 97 Key West Winner . Owner has his eyes on another boat. Full PHRF 3DL inventory ( only used at KW97 ) and Triad trailer + lots of extras ( one design sails & hardware) . Motivated seller - buy the boat today and win tomorrow - nothing needed.
Jonathan Needham <Kevlarboy@aol.com>
Middletown, NJ USA - Saturday, February 21, 1998 at 16:35:28 (EST)

Re: Towing the 105........I've had my 105 trailered privately and commercially to the NAs from SE Ct. the past two years. The Triad trailer is an excellent product, well made, and designed with the needs of the owner in mind. The going rate last fall for having my boat, on a borrowed trailer heading to Chicago and back was approx. 36cents a mile. That was the cost for a driver, with his tow vehicle, fuel expenses included. The cost using a commercial carrier, with their own trailer and truck, was just slightly more expensive. The other cost involved with moving the 105 is the need for highway permits, as it is an oversize load. Permits are needed for each state you pass through. Personally, the experience of having your boat moved is more relaxing letting a professional with the appropriate equipment move the boat around, make sure they're insured. That's the peace of mind issue. Towing it yourself, is ok, but a lot of money up front, and I've seen some funny things happen on the highways. I've towed a J/80 thi past two years to Key West. Things are not always under your control, road conditions and weather-wise. Hope this helps..Let me know if you have any other questions.
Robert Taylor <RTaylor985@aol.com>
New Milford, Ct. USA - Friday, February 20, 1998 at 10:42:12 (EST)

Required wearing of PFDs - COUNTERPOINT Time for the J/105 Community to weigh in? In informal discussions with fellow sailors including both crew and skippers, I've discovered a consensus of opinion at quite a variance with much of the well-intentioned activity regarding requirements for wearing life jackets. In particular, their sentiment (with which I agree) seems to be that the sailing community is indeed safety aware and that the various movements pushing PFD rules/reqs (governmental and sailing/boating association driven) are an unwelcome intrusion in a sport which is by and large about assuming personal responsibility and being held ultimately accountable for one's decisions in this respect. The US Sailing start/finish rule seems especially ludicrous -- the required donning of jackets at these points in the race will only create distraction, visibility, and mobility problems which will probably outweigh any intended safety benefit. Moreover, the start and finish of a race are perhaps the best points for a reasonably high assurance of actual MOB recovery given the presence the committee boat and competitors -- what's wrong with this picture? I've been sailing for 35 years, starting as a kid at the age of 7, have worn PFDs routinely on many occasions, won't go out on my Laser without donning one, have required crew to suit-up against their wishes on my J-Boats, and believe ardently in safety. But I do not believe that we need promulgation of a series of global/blanket rules and regulations to this end. Existing practice with respect to skipper and race committee discretion suffices from my perspective. The thing that is missing in this debate, in my view, is some solid statistical data -- and in absence of compelling numbers I remain skeptical that any real problem is being solved. The question to be answered is 'How many deaths would have been otherwise prevented by such rules/regs?' (while we're at it, let's be realistic about the concussions from gybes, hypothermia, and MOB recovery probabilities) and 'Is this a reasonable trade-off vs. the loss of -- yes -- freedom -- to take risks and exercise individual discretion?'. I, for one, do not subscribe to the "if just one death had been prevented" argument. As a society there are lots of things that we can do to prevent deaths for which we choose not do. Furthermore, sailing is a choice and there is always the available option of wearing a PFD. I suspect that much of the impetus for required wearing of PFDs comes from a combination of (1) well-intentioned sailor activists who may have lost someone close to them (but please, spare the rest of us the burden of unloading your grief!), (2) industry advocates who will sell more gear (equipment chains and manufacturers), (3) race committees/sponsors who would support anything which builds up liability inoculation, and (4) governmental units and NGO sailing associations who, institutionally, must come out on the conservative side of this issue for fear of appearing to oppose safety. None of the above pressures represents a solid, reasoned basis for PFD rules/regs intrusion. I'd like to hear from other actual individual sailors - skippers, crew, sailing guests - on this issue and encourage anyone who agrees with me to write their favorite sailing magazines and associations, as well as talk up the issue around the waterfront and at the clubs. - David Fish Manchester, MA J/105 'Finest Kind' 617.973.4400 dfish@shore.net
Dave Fish <dfish@shore.net>
Manchester, MA USA - Friday, February 20, 1998 at 05:28:16 (EST)

Nelson's addition of the Triad trailer link has me intrigued. We've towed a 3000 pound Tripp 26 to Key West but hadn't really considered taking the 105. I'd appreciate hearing about other owners' experiences towing the 105, including the cost of the trailer, appropriate tow vehicles, etc. Think we can get a one-design start at Key West?
Chris Groobey <j.christopher.groobey@chadbourne.com>
Washington, DC USA - Thursday, February 19, 1998 at 16:58:40 (EST)

Stuart - your first question is my question - Scrimp is supposed to make the cored hull stronger, but even with that improvement, which I am sure is genuine, I wonder how thick the exterior and interior 'glass is and how impervious the whole is to impact. I have no doubts about the 105's talent under sail.
Nathan Gorenstein <72772.2032@compuserve.com>
Wilmington, de USA - Thursday, February 19, 1998 at 14:31:12 (EST)

With regard to the strength of the SCRIMP hull --remember that SCRIMP is a construction technique, not a hull type. I believe that TPI could build both solid and cored hulls using the SCRIMP technique, although I believe all the hulls they currently build are cored. So the question should either be, how does the J/105's cored hull handle damage compared to a solid glass hull (like a Beneteau, for instance), or how does a SCRIMP J/105's hull handle damage compared to a non-SCRIMP hull (i.e. prior to hull #155)? I don't know the answer to the first, but I'm pretty sure the answer to the second is "the SCRIMP hull is stronger because (I think) it has more glass in it than the non-SCRIMP hull. This was done to keep the hull weight the same, since the SCRIMP hull has about 50% of the resin of the old hulls. I may be wrong about this, so maybe someone from J/Boats could respond more authoritatively to the original question.
Stuart Burnett, Hull 198, LEGACY <srburnet@rmc.com>
Richmond, VA USA - Thursday, February 19, 1998 at 14:15:26 (EST)

An even more appropriate question: Has any J/105 dismasted? With about 200 in the water a "NO" answer would be more important than "the hull held up just fine, we tied the mast to the hull and we motored home!" I went with Bill Chambers [#172] {the throwup boat} on the Fort Lauderdale-Key West and we were the lightest boat to finish the race (wind on the nose all the way). Nothing in the rig worked loose from the pounding. Were we sipping tea with the cockpit table in place? NO, but the boat sure felt solid. Dan
Dan Shoemaker <shoedv@flash.net>
Ft Worth, TX USA - Wednesday, February 18, 1998 at 20:26:34 (EST)

Re: Demasting I do not know the story behind this particular demasting, but if you demast an inch or two above deck level the mast beginns to jump around. The result is severe damage to the hull. There have never been built fiberglass boats that can resist this type of demasting. It´s every sailers nightmare to demast that way. These type of demastings happens because the mast curve to much at deck level or if the vang push the mast forward. It can also happen if Hall spars have made the vang welding wrong and that way made the mast weak just above deck level. I´ve been trough the last moment with an Briand mast (X-3/4-ton), the mast were almost of but we saw it before the mast went in to two pieces and jumped around. I don´t think that the J´s are worse than other boats, rather better. Buy the 105!
Per Boeymo <boeymo@online.no>
Fredrikstad, Norway - Wednesday, February 18, 1998 at 15:46:05 (EST)

Considering a 105, but am concerned about impact resistance of hull. (A 130 recently was holed and sank in 15 minutes after being dismasted; mast punched hole in hull.) Has anyone had any experience (hope not) or are aware of any tests comparing the scrimp hull against solid glass? Thanks. Nathan.
Nathan Gorenstein <72772.2032@compuserve.com>
Wilmington, DE USA - Wednesday, February 18, 1998 at 14:53:32 (EST)

Re:Bowboy/Tactician Posts--As owner of Plum Crazy, let me quickly jump in let everyone know that "Tactitian" taught "Bowboy" how to sail and they're kidding one another. We've got a pretty wired group of folks onboard that spend the better part of nine months of the year pulling one another's chain. Unfortunately, what's obvious to those closely involved (like Rich Levitt, who knows the guys well) isn't so obvious to folks hundreds of miles away, who are only able to see the actual words on the computer screen. I personally only use this owners' page for the exchange of technical information, its intended use. I wasn't involved in the origination of this but am sorry that it was inevitably associated with Plum Crazy. One of the keys to whatever success we have enjoyed is that we have a fun boat where we all succeed or fail together. As a working rule, no one, ever, in five years of racing, has been blamed for a failure on the boat-not Bowboy, "Tactician" nor anyone else. (Although you'll probably see some responses that the helmsman was solely responsible for tagging Blond Attack and then planting Plum Crazy on a mud bar for five minutes in the last Rhode River race!) Sorry our folks took up some space on the Owners Page. They'll trade their barbs in a less public format from now on.
Andy Skibo <adsaas@aol.com>
West Chester, USA - Monday, February 16, 1998 at 22:12:09 (EST)

One of the nice things about the J/105 is that it doesn't take long to train a new bowman.
Jon Bigden <jonbigden@ibm.net>
Annapolis, MD USA - Monday, February 16, 1998 at 21:04:05 (EST)

Improve your vocabulary with Bick the Bow-Boy: JOKE: joke; noun- Something said or done to cause laughter, such as a breif story with a punchline; something not taken seriously. SARCASM: sar-casm; noun- An insulting or MOCKING statement or remark. sarcastic, sarcastically - adjective this is for all the lazy tacticians out there who moved to the back of the boat to keep from getting their thining, rogaine-enhanced hair wet on the front of the boat,
bowboy <bickman@aol.com>
USA - Monday, February 16, 1998 at 13:12:58 (EST)

Tactitians don't get as much of the credit as they may deserve. Whenever a boat does well the whole crew takes the credit for the win. But when a boat does poorly, the crew looks back at the tactitian for reasons why they didn't win. Seldom does the crew remember that they had a bad set, mark rounding, or the helmsman was trying to write his name in the water with the boat. From what I've seen, read, and heard, "Plum Crazy" is probably one of the more tactically sound and consistant boats in the class. In my opinion the "Bowboy" on "Plum Crazy" should be happy that he is on a winning boat. I think the "Bowboy" should try to appreciate what he has instead of making fun of it.
John Jordan <Snf3@hotmail.com>
USA - Sunday, February 15, 1998 at 21:59:33 (EST)

Tactitians don't get as much of the credit as they desreve. Whenever a boat does well, the whole boat takes the credit. But when the boat does poorly, the whole crew looks at the tactitian for why they didn't win. The crew seldom remembers that they had a poor mark rounding or the helmsman was trying to write his name in the water with the boat. They, the crew, always look back and say "How are you going to bail us out of this one!" when something goes wrong. From what I've seen, read, and heard, "Plum Crazy" is probably one of the more tactically sound and consistant boats in our class. In my opinion the "Bowboy" on "Plum Crazy" should be happy that he is on a winning boat. It's also my guess that if the "Bowboy's" father didn't own the boat, he probably wouldn't even be on the water.
John Jordan <Runaway3@hotmail.com>
USA - Sunday, February 15, 1998 at 21:30:47 (EST)

The comments made by the Bowboy on Plum Crazy are pretty serious about their tactitian. As I recall, Plum Crazy has been extremely competitive with several different bowman and the same tactitian. Perhaps the bowman should be replaced or maybe the bowman should step a side and the the younger brother or sister take over. They both know how to launch the spinnaker out of the forward hatch and don't go looking for help in the Forum!! (Please see previous atricles and look who posted them) If this kind of nonsense keeps up it looks like Rich Levit's season is going to get better.
Bill Howard <Lehoward@Erols.com>
USA - Sunday, February 15, 1998 at 19:46:16 (EST)

Hell, he is not much good either if he just drinks the beer. He should go buy it for everyone else! It's a tough life being a tactician these days. I would toss him overboard personally.
ian farquharson <ianf@speedware.com>
toronto, on canada - Thursday, February 12, 1998 at 09:14:16 (EST)

Don't have a new tactician for you but might take the old one off your hands. How much beer does he drink?
Rich Levitt <riclevitt@aol.com>
norhtfield, nj USA - Wednesday, February 11, 1998 at 20:23:42 (EST)

WANTED-new tactician for J-105, old one is much too heavy to make weight by June, has been demoted to bottom scrubber, no experience needed, many perks included
bickman <bickman@aol.com>
USA - Wednesday, February 11, 1998 at 18:42:41 (EST)

1) What is the ideal snuffer length for an 89sqmtr A-sail? 2) Intended to document my boat to avoid state regis numbers on the bow. Planned to put the name aft on both sides, hailing port under the swim platform on the transom. USCG keeps telling me they must be together and what I'm proposing is not legal. I've seen boats with "split" markings in person and in magazines, even thought I saw J/105's marked this way on the Knickerbocker Cup show. Anyone been through this and know the answer?
Craig Juel <winston@netnitco.net>
Valparaiso, IN USA - Sunday, February 01, 1998 at 14:12:03 (EST)

Re. Bill's point on dousing & setting the A-kite: there are times when the kite is going to be on the wrong side, even if you do what Bill rightly suggests (douse on the side you EXPECT the kite to come up on at the next mark. This may happen because of wind shifts, changing current patterns, or other tactical considerations. Fortunately, there's a way to avoid untying the sheets and hauling them around the front of the boat: hoist the kite on the side that it already is (the wrong side in this case) and have uour bow person throw it around the headstay as it's going up. It works! So, you don't really need shackles. We use a continuous length of Yale Light with a pigtail tied at the midpoint (which then gets tied to the clew) and have no trouble with jibes.
Harry Blake <hwblake@msn.com>
Tiburon, CA USA - Friday, January 30, 1998 at 13:35:38 (EST)

To Jon; About putting knots onto the clew of the chute. Remember, think ahead, think ahead, think ahead. There is absolutely no reason to untie your spinnaker sheets!!!!!!! Think ahead. The "neat" thing about this assymetical stuff is that you can take the chute down to weather or to leward. Thus, think about the next mark rounding that you will encounter for which you will set the chute. Will this rounding be to port or star? If it is to port then WHEN YOU DOUSE YOUR SHOOT, DOUSE IT ON THE SAME SIDE AS THE NEXT SET IS TO BE!!!!!!!. If you don't understand give me a call. But there is not a reason to have to untie your sheets and reset everything on the other side of the boat. This is slow, slow and slow!!! TO BEGIN WITH - Just take the chute down on the side of the boat that the chute is to be set on, with the next rounding. Now this problem is solved. Good luck! To Craig; 3DL vs UK tape drive "gold". When a 3DL rips the next kevlar thread is quite small it rips, and the next, and so on. The process takes about 0.2 seconds and the sail is gone. On the UK, each tape is HUGE!!!. "About" the only way to break it is to cut it. The one large tape is suppose to support a load of 2700 lbs. My understanding is that "about" the only way to break it is to wrap it around the spreader and tear it. If so, now the load is transfered to another tape that can support about 2700 lbs. Hopefully you will not see a gross failure. I have a 3DL grand prix 155%, stem head - over the drum, and almost two-blocked above. Great sail, great shape. It is good to about 12 knots true. All my other sails are UK tape drive with the heavier material (KCO5X). My blade, 148% and Main are made from this. The main is full batten. The quality of both sail are great, but, my opinion is that the UK tape drive is a better sail for the main and higher wind speeds. The UK loft in Clearwater, FL. built my sails, and the sails on a 1 to 10 are at least an 11!! There was A J105 at Key West Race Week that appeared to have all North 3DL sails. So you might do some research and see what they think. The other J105 had Gleason sails. Anyways have fun spending that money. Because either way you go it is $$$$$$$$$$$$$:)
Bill Chambers <2Texans@reefnet.com>
Marathong, FL USA - Thursday, January 29, 1998 at 21:29:36 (EST)

I am happy with my 3DL genoas (#1 and #2). I think a bigger decision that I have not seen anyone discuss here is whether to cut all your foresails to be furled. I did and don't regret it. I know many people go for the extra sq foot of sail area at the tack but then they have to manually drop the sail and flake it, etc each time. You can't beat the speed of furling after you round the windward mark and unfurling at the leeward mark (keeps weight off the foredeck and is fast). You can always change sails on the downwind leg if you have the wrong one up. I am curious how many of you drop it manually vs furling?
ian farquharson <ianf@speedware.com>
toronto, on canada - Thursday, January 29, 1998 at 09:35:36 (EST)

Down to decision time on my new J/105 sails. Planning to start with class main, class jib, 155% genoa and 89 sqmtr a-sail. I had North Sails on my past boat. Wondered if anyone out there had opinions on North vs UK for J/105's? Have never owned a 3DL or a Tape Drive, and I'm a little wary of both so I'd welcome comments about either from first hand experience. Thanks...
Craig Juel <winston@netnitco.net>
Valparaiso, IN USA - Wednesday, January 28, 1998 at 20:44:39 (EST)

I don't know about the knot vs. shakle question, but every symmetrical spinnaker I've ever flown had shackles for the sheets and sometimes for the guys too. Of course, they don't get dragged across the jib like the sheets of an asymmetic spinnaker. My sailmaker (Quantum Fishing Bay) has done a neat trick for attaching the spin sheets, however. He takes about 4' of spectra and puts an eye in one end and unravels about 18" of the other. The unravaled part is fanned into the clew and stiched down under the corner patches. There is NO grommet in the clew of the sail. The remaining spectra forms a 2' pendant. The sheets are connected to the eye at the end of the pendant. His experience is that this lets you get the knots past the jib on the jibe more easily and reduces weight while spreading the forces into the corner better. I've also heard several owners comment that going to a continuous spinnaker sheet has helped their jibes. With a continuous sheet, you can't pull in one side with out letting out the other. Also, you end up with somewhat less line in the boat.The down side is you can't "blow" a sheet and let it run through the blocks if you get in trouble.
Stuart Burnett - LEGACY <srburnet@rmc.com>
Richmomnd, VA USA - Wednesday, January 28, 1998 at 16:17:53 (EST)

I'm wondering what the most popular method for attaching the sheets and tack line to the chute is. On Thoosa, we just tie bowlines. The problem with this is that on short courses it seems to take an awfully long time to move the whole assembly from one side of the boat to the other (untie, tie them all together, pass them around, retie on the new side) for changes in spinn. set side. Does anyone use shackles? Our skipper is worried that shackles will rub against the jib and tend to snag the chute during jibes. In the ESPN Knickerbocker Cup footage I think I saw a three-or-so foot lead coming off the clew of the sail, then the sheets came off of that. Does anyone know anything about that? People using shackles, what type do you use? Do you keep them on for light air? Any thoughts are appreciated, including ideas on the best strategy when you find yourself coming up to a mark with the chute on the wrong side. Thanks - awesome website!
Jon Bigden <jonbigden@ibm.net>
Annapolis , MD USA - Wednesday, January 28, 1998 at 10:13:43 (EST)

Bruce, I wouldn't go without the 100% class jib personally (get the class jib and 155% and forgo the #2 if necessary). There are a few reasons why .... first of all the class jib is the jib for winds above 16knots. This boat is designed to drive very well with the big main and a small jib and it does. Besides, the jib a pleasure to tack (so simple and fast compared to the genoa). The only reason you need anything else is for PHRF (just like with the chute). Furling up the genoa will give you poor shape and you cannot get it down to 120%, let alone 100% because of the location of the shrouds (the track would have to go right through them!). If you have the genoa, though, I would definitely get the adjustable lead tracks.
ian farquharson <ianf@speedware.com>
toronto, on canada - Monday, January 26, 1998 at 18:47:01 (EST)

Thanks again for the info. What about having full length genoa tracks installed, with adjustable Harken leads? I raced on a Catalina 320 that had this set-up...very slick and easy to adjust lead under load. Could I then have only one headsail (155) that could be rolled down to a 130 or 120 as wind increased? How efficient are these furlers, and/or sails to accomplish this task? As yu can see, I'm trying to figure all the angles before buying. anything else to worry about?
Bruce Bendure
USA - Sunday, January 25, 1998 at 09:00:26 (EST)

Bruce if you limit yourself to one chute and are racing PHRF you must get the jumbo (110 sq metre) in my opinion. The small class chute is great for everyday cruising, daysailing and heavy air racing but too underpowered in PHRF. If you are planning to do a lot of cruising/daysailing then you may want to consider the 89 sq metre as a compromise (I don't have experience with this one). Enjoy the boat!
ian farquharson <ianf@speedware.com>
toronto, on canada - Saturday, January 24, 1998 at 14:43:54 (EST)

I have learned about this great boat from reading all the posts...thanks to all. I am putting together a package for a new 105 and would like personal feedback regarding options to avoid, must have, etc. My racing will be PHRF, can I get away with one spinnaker? How "all purpose" is really going to be effective? I would also like to talk directly to some "experienced owners". Post me your phone number, I'll return the call! Once again, many thanks.
Bruce Bendure <MomVan@aol.com>
Milford, Mi USA - Saturday, January 24, 1998 at 09:12:01 (EST)

We launch from the hatch without a bag and have never had a snag or tear yet. We do have the foredeck person help pre-feed the clew and tack first before we hoist though. The only tears we have had were from sharp untaped pins at the base of the furling drum or the base of the shrouds(shouldn't happen with a good jibe but sometimes the chute falls down that far). We tried a bag once but they are very bulky and we spent more time trying to fit it in the pulpit or behind the jib and it seemed pointless to re-pack it all the time. ps. no one else using the snuffer?
ian farquharson <ianf@speedware.com>
toronto, on canada - Friday, January 23, 1998 at 17:34:16 (EST)

My father and i have since we were 6 years old used a tiller, when we get aboard a boat that have a wheel it´s like drivi´n a car. Our problem is that we can´t get used to pull the wheel to leeward to fall off wind. It´s the opposit of a tiller. Aboat rudder pressure: we have sailed a lot of boats that are really heavy working with, but it doesn´t matter you will get used to it, or you sign up for a healt studio...... So we prefere the tiller.
Per Boeymo <boeymo@online.no>
Norway - Friday, January 23, 1998 at 16:11:05 (EST)

A couple of thoughts on the various threads: 1. "Foredeck Boy" asks about launching the chute from a bag. I'm unclear whether he means a bag on the rail or a j/24-style bag from the hatch. In either case, we've never used one on our heavily raced boat, although I know of at least one very good skipper who recommends using a bag attached to the bow pulpit for sets in heavy air (that's Chesapeake heavy air, which is a zephyr to the SF crowd; maybe they have other ideas). Launching "loose" from the hatch presents only two snagging dangers that we are aware of: (i) the foot pedal for the sink in the head and (ii) any burrs that might be on the aluminum frame around the hatch (file them down or cover them with duct tape). We always douse to windward (again a light-air luxury), so the chute is ready to go back up immediately without running tapes or packing into a bag. Why have a crew spending minutes packing a chute in the slowest place in the boat when they can be topsides contributing to the racing? 2. On the tiller versus wheel debate, Andy has a beautifully prepared and raced boat, so I don't disagree with him lightly. But we are also tiller-boat refugees who think the wheel is the only way to go. I think it's a safety issue more than anything else. Andy's "close encounter" that might have been avoided with a wheel is an example of the loads that can build on the steering mechanism of this boat, especially with the asym chute that can add significant lateral loads to the boat. There were times when we couldn't control our old 26 foot, 3000 pound boat with the tiller and there have been heavy weather races on our 105 (one overnight distance race last year in particular) when we would have been in trouble with a tiller. Others may disagree, but I think everyone on a boat should be physically able to take over the steering in an emergency, and a tiller on a 105 doesn't meet that requirement in my mind. Sure, we miss the tiller's feedback upwind, but we're getting used to it. Reliability? Wheels take more maintenance, but last year's most spectacular crash was a J/35 that smashed into the committee boat when its tiller extension broke. Lastly, consider whether you will ever take the boat for a cruise with your friends. We do, and they enjoy the intuitive nature of the wheel when they take their turn, and I enjoy the ability to set the autopilot and join our friends at the cockpit table. 3. Again, folks will disagree, but I think adjustable jib cars are a waste of money for this boat. What's the point if you can't adjust under load? (Genoa cars for PHRF racing are another story.) If the boat is correctly tuned during the pre-start, a crew should be able to make any (usually minor) necessary adjustments during tacks or downwind. We'd rather spend the $1000 on a racecomp compass or better beer. Hope this is helpful. Thanks as always to Nelson for providing this forum.
Chris Groobey <j.christopher.groobey@chadbourne.com>
Washington, DC USA - Friday, January 23, 1998 at 13:08:40 (EST)

thanks for the snuffer comments Harry. anyone else out there using it? With respect to the wheel/tiller discussion, I think there are wheels and then there are wheels. The one that happens to be on the J105 is excellent - best I have ever experienced. It's big, has a feather-light touch and the pedestal is a perfect foot brace when you are heeled over. Harry's comments about the skippers manoeverability with the wheel are very valid too. You simply slide back and forth across the transom - well out of the crews way. You can't do that easily with a tiller.
ian farquharson <ianf@speedware.com>
toronto, on canada - Friday, January 23, 1998 at 09:43:12 (EST)

If anybody out there wants backup sails, I've 5 mains and 3 jibs ranging in age from 1992 to 1994 I could sell. Also, two spinnakers, but they are symmetrical. Regarding the discussion on the snuffer: three years ago I was in a doublehanded race out here on SF Bay. When approaching the leeward mark with an unsnuffed A-kite up, a squall hit packing 35 knot winds. The douse didn't go well. My crew and I went shrimping for 15 minutes before we had to cut it away, losing it to Davey Jones' locker. Since then I use the snuffer religiously when single or doublehanding. Yes, it's a pain to rig and there are lines everywhere, but it gives me great peace of mind to know that I can get it down when I want to get it down. Regarding the problems of shifting from one system to another, if you are in an area where you are allowed to carry only one kite aboard (in SF we carry a backup because we blow out the primaries so much), and you own two, I'd always keep the older one in the snuffer. Sure you still have to rig it, but at least you don't have to get it into the sock each time. On wheel vs. tiller, I had no choice since I bought my boat used (with a wheel). I had always used a tiller and probably have bought the boat that way had I bought it new. I'm happy, however, that I have the wheel. While I think I would probably do better upwind with a tiller (better feel, better visibility of the jib, better weight placement), there's no doubt in my mind that the wheel gives me an advantage overall. Mobility is great with the wheel, as is visibility down wind. I would not want to have to jibe the kite in 25 knots of wind (which we do a lot of here) with a tiller. Under this condition, it's critical that the main gets jibed quickly (going wing and wing in 25 knots is no fun), and that process is easier with the wheel. I can see the progress of the kite around the headstay, and I can see the progress of the main coming over. This is critical because you generally have to head up on the new jibe more than you would otherwise like to in order to get the main jibed. This means that when the kite fills on the new jibe, the helmsman has to anticipate this and bear away as it fills. If you're a little late on this you take a knockdown. Another advantage of this visibility is on light days being able to see whether the kite is getting around the headstay on jibes. When it jibes around inside the headstay, with the wheel you can clearly see that and quickly go back on the origial jibe and try it over (with perhaps your bow person helping it around the next time).
Harry Blake <hwblake@MSN.com>
Tiburon, CA USA - Thursday, January 22, 1998 at 15:10:18 (EST)

Re various posts on Wheel vs. Tiller: Plum Crazy is one of the few boats that has converted from wheel (original purchase condition) to tiller. We made conversion after three years of racing wheel. Benefits/risks are pretty much a personal preference issue. I personally believe for me it is a lot easier to find/hold the groove. Downside is you've definitely got to have some muscle to handle tiller in heavy weather conditions and you've got to be agile during tacks. I'm 5'7" and, with straight tiller, must duck the tiller during a tack. Our 6'2" Main/Tactician simply steps over. That becomes second nature under most conditions. One definite disadvantage is fact that it isn't easy to quickly jump to leeward to get visibility on that side. If boat is really heeled, getting across tiller to leeward is a trick requiring some time and care. We had one foul on a close encounter on a start that I think I would have avoided had I still had the wheel. Bottom line for us: personal performance improvement defitinely worth the change, but I've always driven tiller boats, so it may be a Ford vs. Chevy kind of thing. PS: if anyone wants to convert to wheel, I've got all the gear which I'd be glad to sell.
Andy Skibo <adsaas@aol.com>
West Chester, PA USA - Wednesday, January 21, 1998 at 23:34:04 (EST)

Replying to various notes on car pullers: Fleet #3 has a number of boats that have #3 car pullers. When we first started racing with Fleet #3, that variaation was considered a regional option, so we had Harken Medium cars and pullers added. There are at least 4 boats with pullers of various construction. Currently, Fleet #3 continues to allow pullers onboard, but they cannot be adjusted under load. The Harken Medium installation, with tracks and all gear, professionally installed, ran about $1,000. Most other boats have used same Harken Light cars as J/105 uses for Genoa cars. Harken doesn't recommend this, but I don't know of any failures in four years. For reference, with standard 4:1 car tackle, it takes nowhere near 95 lb. to pull line. We've raced up into the 35 kt. range and never had to do more that lean into the pull. Certainly within range of any adult male. Harken now makes a "pinnable car" and track for this arrangement that allows boat to be sailed either in the adjustable mode or in the pinnable mode. The latter would of course be class legal anywhere. Final note, to my knowledge, question has never arisen in Fleet #3 of allowing boats so equipped to sail under class conditions; it's never been raised in any owners' meeting I've attended nor has anyone mentioned it to me or the other boats so equipped, probably because it was an original Fleet #3 exception.
Andy Skibo <adsaas@aol.com>
West Chester, PA USA - Wednesday, January 21, 1998 at 23:20:26 (EST)

I am interested in finding out how many people fly the chute straight out of the hatch, rather than using a bag. If your boat goes "bagless" is there ever ant problems with snagging, or worse ripping? The reason is I don't see any advantage to going straight from the hatch, is it worth the risk of damage? it cannot be that much faster or easier? is there any problems with raps? I would like to here from anyone.
Foredeck boy <bickman@aol.com>
Ocean City , NJ USA - Wednesday, January 21, 1998 at 19:55:57 (EST)

Here are some thoughts on installing adjustable tracks for the jib leads. The loads generated by the class jib can be surprisingly high. Although we think of it as only a "working jib", remember that sheet force increases with the square of the wind speed, and the class jib will be carried in 25-30 kts. In 25 kts, (about the maximum conditions in which we RACE in my area) the load on the car towing tackle will be about 380 lbs. Even with 4:1 tackle you are looking at 95 lbs. of force to move the car, assumming no friction in the system. The average man can generate about 75 lbs of force with both hands pulling with feet braced, so you would probably need to put the lead-line on a winch to move the car forward. Also, note that at these loads, a ball bearing car is required, which means replacing the existing track. I would guess this could be done for $750 to $850 dollars with a Harken system, maybe a little less in Lewmar (which typically has higher load values for the $s). I know one boat in Fleet 3 has done this, and there have been questions about allowing the boat to race in the class OD configuration, since this upgrade cannot be easily removed or defeated.
Stuart Burnett <srburnet@rmc.com>
Richmond, VA USA - Tuesday, January 20, 1998 at 14:57:06 (EST)

Does anyone have any comments/suggestions on my earlier e-mail re:the snuffer? Can't decide whether to totally give up and find other ways to douse when daysailing short-handed or whether to try again by finding a way to "quick-rig" it. When you switch constantly between racing and daysailing its tough. Help!
ian farquharson <ianf@speedware.com>
toronto, on Canada - Tuesday, January 20, 1998 at 11:32:44 (EST)

Re: Adjusting jib leads under load. If you can adjust the jib track point during sailing it certainly would increase performance. As we have a roller furling on the 105 the jib will have a better shape if we could adjust the jib when we decrease jib area. I think $1000 in gear seams too much. If you can`t get the gear for less then $200 ex.works it´s too much. You only need two cams, four small blocks and the rope. That ain´t much.
Per Boeymo <boeymo@online.no>
Fredrikstad, Norway - Tuesday, January 20, 1998 at 03:48:33 (EST)

Although class rules don't permit it, has anyone installed equipment to adjust the jib leads under load? It seems to me that this would cost about $1000 in gear, and could be well worth it. We ask the class jib to do so much, ie, function well in light as well as heavy air, it seems to me that for a relatively small investment(the jib is about $2500) we could get much more performance from the jib. Anyway, any experience you might have or any thoughts will be welcomed.
dean dietrich <deanj105@aol.com>
Tiburon, cA USA - Monday, January 19, 1998 at 21:38:28 (EST)

regarding the wheel vs. tiller, I had the same question before I bought my boat. I had the opportunity to crew in the Brut Cup in San Francisco with some "rock stars", such as Ed Baird, Mike Holmgren, Gavin Brady and others. When asked, each of them said they preferred the wheel over the tiller. As a result, when I purchased my boat(used)I had it converted to a wheel (not cheap, about $5,000). I don't regret it. In particular, I like the mobility it gives you. In light airs, I like sitting in the lee, which is harder to do with a tiller, and I like seeing the windward mark as I round, again harder with a tiller. In our fleet (Fleet 1), there haven't been any apparent differences in performance; last year's champion had a wheel, the year before: a tiller.
dean dietrich <deanj105@aol.com>
tiburon,, ca USA - Monday, January 19, 1998 at 21:29:58 (EST)

On the snuffer issue I should have added that we keep an old "cruising" chute in the snuffer all the time for day sailing and delieveries.Racing chute stays flaked in the bag
Richard Levitt <riclevitt@aol.com>
northfield, nj USA - Monday, January 19, 1998 at 20:24:30 (EST)

Oops. In my previous post on tillers vs wheels, I ment to say, "and at least one owner of a TILLER J/105".
Stuart R. Burnett <Srburnet@rmc.com>
Richmond, VA USA - Monday, January 19, 1998 at 11:34:24 (EST)

On the wheel vs tiller question. I've talked to a couple of owners who prefer the tiller. Most people I've talked to prefer the wheel. This includes several members of the Johnstone clan, some "tiller oriented" racers from other classes who've sailed the wheel J/105, and at least one owner of a wheel 105. Particularly off the wind, the wheel is a lot less work. You get a better mechanical advantage with the wheel and better leverage as there's really no where to sit and brace yourself downwind when a tiller is both pulling and pushing. I've spoken with several owners who find their wives are more comfortable with the wheel for these reasons. As mentioned in an earlier post the Autohelm ST4000+ is the standard above-deck autopilot used with the wheel configuration. I've spoken with many owners who use this setup and are pleased with it. You can also use any model of underdeck autopilot but the cost is signifacantly higher.
Stuart R. Burnett <Srburnet@rmc.com>
Richmond, VA USA - Monday, January 19, 1998 at 11:26:41 (EST)

I am interested in the snuffer discussion. I have tried hard with the snuffer and had mixed success. I believe it is the right way if you either only cruise or if you are going on an extended cruise. If you switch constantly between racing and daysailing, as I do, then it is a problem. There are just too many extra lines around for racing and the crew hate it, so I removed the snuffer. The problem is then that it is too much fiddling around to put it back on for a quick short-handed daysail. So I have been searching for some techniques to douse the chute when short-handed, without a snuffer (its still a lot easier than a conventional chute!). Got some suggestions here a while back but others are very welcome. I am toying with the idea of shortening the snuffer control lines somewhat and tying them off on the lifelines near the mast (to have less line and avoid re-feeding them through the eyes each time) whenever I do go for a daysail. The other problem is that I would need to have a chute always in the snuffer (because there is now way I am re-packing it every time I race or daysail and there is no way my crew will use the snuffer). The non-snuffer douse techniques I heard range from using a long retrieving line lead back and tied off on the cabin rail so it can be reached from the cockpit - to unfurling the jib on the windward side, trimming in the spinn sheet hard, then jibing and drop the halyard fast thereby letting the cute be "caught" by the jib and drop on the foredeck. I didn't try any of these yet. Comments?
ian farquharson <ianf@speedware.com>
toronto, on Canada - Monday, January 19, 1998 at 10:51:36 (EST)

Comments on snuffer (sock) and wheel: For 2 people to fly the chute, I would definitely get a snuffer. The J-boat asymetricals were designed for this inexpensive feature. It is safer,more convenient, and will encourage short handed crews to use the chute more in what might otherwise be a motoring situation. Dropping the chute in a breeze is a much easier operation requiring only easing the sheet and pulling the snuffer line. Remember that you are sailing broader jibe angles than with a conventioal spinaker.They are not for racing. I like the wheel on my boat beacause it is easy for the helmsperson to move around and is much less tiring. Also it allows for installation of the relatively inexpensive autopilot,the Autohelm 4000.My boat was used in a professional regatta, the Nickerboker Cup. When asked, sailors at that level seemed to have no real preference although a few regular 105 racers give a slight edge to the tiller for "feel"
Richard Levitt <riclevitt@aol.com>
northfield, nj USA - Sunday, January 18, 1998 at 11:03:09 (EST)

Just finalized a contract on a new J/105 yesterday, very much looking forward to spring launch. Plan to race once/week, but when we're not racing it will often be just my wife and I. We've never had a boat with an asymmetrical and I was wondering whether or not we'd need a sock to fly it with just the two of us. On our Pearson 31, we never tried to fly the conventional spinnaker without a sock (in fact we were pretty proud of the fact that we could manage to set, fly and douse it with just the two of us + an Autohelm), but I'm getting the impression we won't need it with the a-sail. Also, we've already chosen all the options etc., but any advice on choosing sails, placing equipment or other things unique to the J/105 that you wish you would have known before the first time you commissioned a J/105 would be appreciated.
Craig Juel <winston@netnitco.net>
Valparaiso, IN USA - Sunday, January 18, 1998 at 09:17:43 (EST)

Bruce - I have a tiller and most of my sailing is racing. I've always had and prefered a tiller (except for the cruising charters we take). The J105 cockpit is really set up for a wheel. True, a tiller will move the driver forward for weight placement, but, you will always have to use the extension to reach the tiller since the seating is so far away from the centerline tiller. A wheel would offer much better mobility for the helmsman during racing and others around the aft end of the boat on day sails. I believe most of the J105's are made with the wheel option. And, since it was an option that wasn't a necessity, I passed. If I ordered a new one today, I probably would work harder to find a way to get the wheel.
Skip Malm <wish105@lcol.net>
Concord, OH USA - Saturday, January 17, 1998 at 23:16:19 (EST)

Any comments and/or debates over the merits, or negatives about buying a 105 with or without the wheel. What is the consensus?
Bruce Bendure
Milford, MI USA - Friday, January 16, 1998 at 17:55:52 (EST)

Anyone want to post a summary of the Fleet 3 meeting that occurred this weekend?
Stuart R. Burnett <srburnet@rmc.com>
Richmond, VA USA - Monday, January 12, 1998 at 16:14:16 (EST)

I am looking for a 77 sq.m chute in good-very good condition with sailmaker's certificate.
Wayne Ventresca <J80SLICK@aol.com>
Park Ridge, IL USA - Monday, January 05, 1998 at 21:13:12 (EST)

I am a prospective new customer of a J- 105 ( or a J-92). I will be racing on Lk. St. Clair. I would like info on new and used boats...any problems and celebrations with this boat. Thanks for any help you can offer. Bruce Bendure 248-685-9204 h 248-684-8015 w
Bruce Bendure <MomVan@aol.com>
Milford, MI USA - Saturday, January 03, 1998 at 11:18:36 (EST)

Open Forum entries from 1997.

Back to the J/105 Class Association.

Nelson Weiderman